Saturday, November 26, 2011
New carry setup: Maxpedition Jumbo EDC + Streamlight PT1A
Greetings and happy Thanksgiving! I hope yours was great. I'll post pics and a much, much more in-depth review but I wanted to sing the praises of two new pieces of equipment that I have really been enjoying.
First, the Maxpedition Jumbo EDC Versa-Pack. For my day job I am now just carrying an iPad, a few small electronic odds and ends, and that's about it. When I was toting a laptop back and forth from home to work it made a lot of sense to carry my backpack (a 5.11 Covrt18 which, now that I think about it, I need todo a review of that as well). I love the Covrt18 but it was just too much pack for an iPad. Anyway, the short version is that I am just in love with the Jumbo EDC and I'll fill you in on it later.
The second piece of new equipment I wanted to tell you about is the Streamlight PT1A. After switching to the Jumbo EDC bag I had room/capability to carry a small flashlight. I have both a Streamlight PolyTac and a Surefire G2X Pro, but both were a little more light than I wanted. I looked at the Surefire E1B but it was just too expensive. Then I found it- the Streamlight PT1A is a single-cell (CR123a) LED flashlight that will just blow your mind. It has 3 modes- high, strobe, and low. Runtime on high is like 2 hours, and runtime on low is something like 40 hours. It's made of aluminum and has a great feel in the hand. It's just a touch bigger than a big tube of Chapstick, and weighs only slightly more than the battery. Output is great and it costs roughly $40. From a bang-for-the-buck standpoint, it is probably my favorite piece of gear to date. It's awesome for everyday carry but would be equally suited to store in your car glovebox or in your nightstand. There is also a 2-cell version as well as 1- and 2-cell AA versions. The AA versions don't have quite the output as the CR123a versions, but they make up for that with a more affordable battery that is easier to come by, especially when traveling.
Anyway, I'll go into more detail on these two little gems but I wanted to let you know what's coming. Be safe!
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Review: Sig Sauer P229R DAK
...and we're back! Geez, sorry for the hiatus. Let's see the last few months have included (not in order of importance): Finding out my wife is pregnant with our first child, adding on to our house, expanding my workshop, teaching a management class, getting a new job. Yeah. Good stuff.
But let's get our priorities straight and talk guns! :) Whether we're talking pistols or cars or comfortable chairs, hopefully you've had one of those, "Ahhhhh." moments when you find something that fits you just right. It's a great feeling- like whatever it was was custom made just for you. That's how I feel about the Sig P229.
That being said, you might not have the same reaction. But then again you might.
I've actually owned two other Sig P229's prior to this one. Both were conventional DA/SA trigger setups. Both were sold/traded/something when I was younger and had less sense than I do now. I've always missed the P229 and when I found this one in a local pawn shop it was a no-brainer.
This iteration of the P229 is different from my previous pistols in two distinct ways. First, this is the "R" model, meaning there is a short section of Picatinny (or 1913) rail built into the frame forward of the trigger guard. I think this looks cool, and is a nice addition, but I don't know that I would ever attach a light to this gun. It's got a relatively short barrel (3.9" and that seems like a stretch) and my TLR-1 sticks waaaaaay out past the muzzle when I attached it for testing. Again, looks cool, but adds weight and I'll never use it. But whatever.
The second--and more important--way that this version is different is the DAK trigger. DAK is a nod to the Sig engineer that came up with the system ("Double Action Kellerman"). So to back up a bit: In a traditional double action/single action setup, the first trigger pull is long and typically harder (10 lbs or more), and then when the gun fires on that first round the mechanical cycling of the slide cocks the hammer for the second (and subsequent) shots, thereby requiring a shorter and lighter trigger pull following the first shot.
There's really nothing wrong with this system, but it's hard to train with. Most people can't shoot as well with a DA/SA setup as they can with a gun that has a consistent rigger pull, like a M1911 or a Glock. A quick and dirty solution is to make a DA/SA gun double-action only- or DAO. Which solves the problem of consistency, but makes the gun a bit of a square wheel- you've got physics working for you...why not take some of that trigger pull away? Which is what Glock and the M1911 do, but there's another issue: hard primers.
If a Glock or a 1911 fail to ignite a round, there's no great way to strike the primer a second time. I know, I know, all you advanced shooters- it's not hard, but for most people there's no great solution. Other than to just cycle the slide and get a new round in the chamber. OK, so that's all the background stuff.
So what Sig did with the DAK is split the difference. The cycling of the slide- either manually or from firing the weapon-essentially half-cocks the hammer (which is bobbed, by the way, since there's never a way/reason to have it full cocked). But, if for some reason the hammer falls on a hard primer, you can pull the trigger again, albeit with a harder/longer pull, but not unreasonably so.
I think this is a great system. (and so do the Feds, apparently- this gun has been adopted for quite a few agencies) The trigger pull is not only consistent, but it's incredibly smooth. That, coupled with Sig's unmatched build quality and this is just a great, great gun. Is it without flaws? Of course not.
As I mentioned before, I could do without the rail. I think it's more keeping up with the Jones's, but that's fine. It's a heavy gun, but that's the price you pay for all-metal construction and Rolex-quality machining. No plastic here! It also has a relatively short barrel, at 3.8" or 3.9" or whatever it is. Again, you know what you're buying when you buy it but when you handle the gun you do get a sense for how compact this gun really is. My only other gripe is that the finish is not as durable as, say, a Glock. But all in all, pretty minor gripes.
Ok, I have one more...well, it's not a complaint so much as an observation: Sig pistols have three controls, all located along the left side of the grip. These are the magazine release button, the slide release button, and the decocking lever. Since the DAK is never "cocked" in the same way that other DA/SA Sigs are, they simply removed the decocking lever. Which is fine. BUT, the grips have a slight cutout for the lever. You'd think that with Sig's attention to detail that would have slapped some grips on this gun that didn't have the decocking lever cutout. Nope. So it's not a deal-killer by any means, but I think they missed an opportunity here.
So that's some thoughts on the Sig P229R DAK. This one is a .40, and I think they come in both 9mm and .357SIG. If you don't have a Sig in your stable of firearms, you owe it to yourself to at least shoot one and see how you like it. I like GlocksGlock is a Timex, Sig is a Rolex. Check out the P229 DAK. You might just fall in love with the trigger like I did.
But let's get our priorities straight and talk guns! :) Whether we're talking pistols or cars or comfortable chairs, hopefully you've had one of those, "Ahhhhh." moments when you find something that fits you just right. It's a great feeling- like whatever it was was custom made just for you. That's how I feel about the Sig P229.
That being said, you might not have the same reaction. But then again you might.
I've actually owned two other Sig P229's prior to this one. Both were conventional DA/SA trigger setups. Both were sold/traded/something when I was younger and had less sense than I do now. I've always missed the P229 and when I found this one in a local pawn shop it was a no-brainer.
This iteration of the P229 is different from my previous pistols in two distinct ways. First, this is the "R" model, meaning there is a short section of Picatinny (or 1913) rail built into the frame forward of the trigger guard. I think this looks cool, and is a nice addition, but I don't know that I would ever attach a light to this gun. It's got a relatively short barrel (3.9" and that seems like a stretch) and my TLR-1 sticks waaaaaay out past the muzzle when I attached it for testing. Again, looks cool, but adds weight and I'll never use it. But whatever.
The second--and more important--way that this version is different is the DAK trigger. DAK is a nod to the Sig engineer that came up with the system ("Double Action Kellerman"). So to back up a bit: In a traditional double action/single action setup, the first trigger pull is long and typically harder (10 lbs or more), and then when the gun fires on that first round the mechanical cycling of the slide cocks the hammer for the second (and subsequent) shots, thereby requiring a shorter and lighter trigger pull following the first shot.
There's really nothing wrong with this system, but it's hard to train with. Most people can't shoot as well with a DA/SA setup as they can with a gun that has a consistent rigger pull, like a M1911 or a Glock. A quick and dirty solution is to make a DA/SA gun double-action only- or DAO. Which solves the problem of consistency, but makes the gun a bit of a square wheel- you've got physics working for you...why not take some of that trigger pull away? Which is what Glock and the M1911 do, but there's another issue: hard primers.
If a Glock or a 1911 fail to ignite a round, there's no great way to strike the primer a second time. I know, I know, all you advanced shooters- it's not hard, but for most people there's no great solution. Other than to just cycle the slide and get a new round in the chamber. OK, so that's all the background stuff.
So what Sig did with the DAK is split the difference. The cycling of the slide- either manually or from firing the weapon-essentially half-cocks the hammer (which is bobbed, by the way, since there's never a way/reason to have it full cocked). But, if for some reason the hammer falls on a hard primer, you can pull the trigger again, albeit with a harder/longer pull, but not unreasonably so.
I think this is a great system. (and so do the Feds, apparently- this gun has been adopted for quite a few agencies) The trigger pull is not only consistent, but it's incredibly smooth. That, coupled with Sig's unmatched build quality and this is just a great, great gun. Is it without flaws? Of course not.
As I mentioned before, I could do without the rail. I think it's more keeping up with the Jones's, but that's fine. It's a heavy gun, but that's the price you pay for all-metal construction and Rolex-quality machining. No plastic here! It also has a relatively short barrel, at 3.8" or 3.9" or whatever it is. Again, you know what you're buying when you buy it but when you handle the gun you do get a sense for how compact this gun really is. My only other gripe is that the finish is not as durable as, say, a Glock. But all in all, pretty minor gripes.
Ok, I have one more...well, it's not a complaint so much as an observation: Sig pistols have three controls, all located along the left side of the grip. These are the magazine release button, the slide release button, and the decocking lever. Since the DAK is never "cocked" in the same way that other DA/SA Sigs are, they simply removed the decocking lever. Which is fine. BUT, the grips have a slight cutout for the lever. You'd think that with Sig's attention to detail that would have slapped some grips on this gun that didn't have the decocking lever cutout. Nope. So it's not a deal-killer by any means, but I think they missed an opportunity here.
So that's some thoughts on the Sig P229R DAK. This one is a .40, and I think they come in both 9mm and .357SIG. If you don't have a Sig in your stable of firearms, you owe it to yourself to at least shoot one and see how you like it. I like GlocksGlock is a Timex, Sig is a Rolex. Check out the P229 DAK. You might just fall in love with the trigger like I did.
Monday, May 9, 2011
Yikes....still no new posts
Sorry everyone- between starting a new job and having a lot of irons in the fire I simply have not had the time to post any new content. What a drag!!! :( I'm tempted to let my self-contempt get the best of me and just take the whole thing offline until I can start getting some meaningful content up, but I know that some of our visitors are just seeing this for the first time, and hopefully some of the older posts are helpful and/or interesting.
So in the meantime, be safe and check back for updates.
So in the meantime, be safe and check back for updates.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Who's a lazy blogger?....
...this guy. Sorry all, it's been crazy around here and I haven't had time to get any new posts up. But don't despair, little campers- more great content is coming soon. I've been thinking about going through my resident AR-15/M4 and showing the modifications I've done to it. I have been lucky enough to go through two different operator courses, one with a stock M4 and one with my own and I think discussing the practical differences would be interesting. My goal is to start that series of posts sometime in the next few days.
In the meantime, check out this sweet DVD trailer that was sent out my Mark LaRue over at LaRue Tactical:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18dOzeDtpr4
The guys at Magpul really know how to do it. Wow! When you're done with that, head over to Mark's website at www.laruetactical.com for some of the most badass, practical accessories you'll find on the face of this planet. Yeah, it's not the cheapest stuff around but it's worth every penny. Adios for now.
In the meantime, check out this sweet DVD trailer that was sent out my Mark LaRue over at LaRue Tactical:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18dOzeDtpr4
The guys at Magpul really know how to do it. Wow! When you're done with that, head over to Mark's website at www.laruetactical.com for some of the most badass, practical accessories you'll find on the face of this planet. Yeah, it's not the cheapest stuff around but it's worth every penny. Adios for now.
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Review: Surefire G2X Pro
Thanks to my great sister and brother in law, I turned my Christmas gift of a Brownell's gift certificate into a new Surefire G2X Pro LED flashlight.
To say I am impressed would be an understatement. First of all, it's typical Surefire quality, which is to say built like a tank. I purchased my first Surefire (a 6Z) in 1999 and it's still going strong today mounted on my M4 as a weapon light. I've updated the head to an LED version but 10 years later it's still a great light.
This light has an LED head and a tailcap that enables you to press momentarily or press harder to "click" on. But it gets better. The first press (momentary or click on) gives you 15 lumens of light. Here's how it looks in a relatively bright room:
This brightness is very useful. I could see using this for general tasks. And although you cannot see it in this picture, there is a big halo or "spill" area around the main beam, which I like for outdoor activities as it illuminates not only your main path but the things around you.
NOW, press the tailcap again and you get an amazing 200 lumens!
This photo doesn't do it justice but the center beam is amazingly bright, and the halo is very uniform. You can also twist the tailcap about a 1/4 turn to lock the light off for transport or storage.
This light is made of polymer with an aluminum head and a glass lens. It's got a fairly non-slip surface and weighs a scant 4.4 oz. It's powered by 2- 123A lithium batteries, which are expensive but what are you gonna do? Runtime is listed as 2.5 hours on high and 45 (yes, forty-five) hours on low). The body is just shy of 1" OD by my calipers (0.99" to be exact) and the bezel is about 1.25". It's about 5.2" in length.
Price is equally awesome, at around $55 for this version. Not really sure how they do it, but they do. There is also an identical version that is made from aluminum, which is about $10 more. I'm interested in that light as well, but have some concerns about aluminum. First, it's cold in the winter and hot in the summer. Polymer is a much better material when it comes to not transferring heat/cold. Second, while the AL version is hard anodized it will show scratches and wear. Not polymer (well, the head will since it's aluminum, but not the body). Finally, if you've ever dropped an aluminum flashlight you know they dent. Again, polymer doesn't have this problem. If handgun manufacturers can make frames out of the stuff, it's gotta be good for a flashlight!
Is there anything I'm not impressed with? No, not really! My only gripe is that I want two more: one for my truck and one for my wife's car! There are also two other versions with press on momentary/twist on constant switching and only the 200 lumen output mode. Those lights are about $70 for the polymer version and $80 for the AL version. I guess these would be better suited for on-duty use or mounted to a weapon, where you don't want the 15 lumen output mode. I personally think the two settings is really, really smart.
More information: http://www.surefire.com/G2X6PXCampaign
To say I am impressed would be an understatement. First of all, it's typical Surefire quality, which is to say built like a tank. I purchased my first Surefire (a 6Z) in 1999 and it's still going strong today mounted on my M4 as a weapon light. I've updated the head to an LED version but 10 years later it's still a great light.
This light has an LED head and a tailcap that enables you to press momentarily or press harder to "click" on. But it gets better. The first press (momentary or click on) gives you 15 lumens of light. Here's how it looks in a relatively bright room:
This brightness is very useful. I could see using this for general tasks. And although you cannot see it in this picture, there is a big halo or "spill" area around the main beam, which I like for outdoor activities as it illuminates not only your main path but the things around you.
NOW, press the tailcap again and you get an amazing 200 lumens!
This photo doesn't do it justice but the center beam is amazingly bright, and the halo is very uniform. You can also twist the tailcap about a 1/4 turn to lock the light off for transport or storage.
This light is made of polymer with an aluminum head and a glass lens. It's got a fairly non-slip surface and weighs a scant 4.4 oz. It's powered by 2- 123A lithium batteries, which are expensive but what are you gonna do? Runtime is listed as 2.5 hours on high and 45 (yes, forty-five) hours on low). The body is just shy of 1" OD by my calipers (0.99" to be exact) and the bezel is about 1.25". It's about 5.2" in length.
Price is equally awesome, at around $55 for this version. Not really sure how they do it, but they do. There is also an identical version that is made from aluminum, which is about $10 more. I'm interested in that light as well, but have some concerns about aluminum. First, it's cold in the winter and hot in the summer. Polymer is a much better material when it comes to not transferring heat/cold. Second, while the AL version is hard anodized it will show scratches and wear. Not polymer (well, the head will since it's aluminum, but not the body). Finally, if you've ever dropped an aluminum flashlight you know they dent. Again, polymer doesn't have this problem. If handgun manufacturers can make frames out of the stuff, it's gotta be good for a flashlight!
Is there anything I'm not impressed with? No, not really! My only gripe is that I want two more: one for my truck and one for my wife's car! There are also two other versions with press on momentary/twist on constant switching and only the 200 lumen output mode. Those lights are about $70 for the polymer version and $80 for the AL version. I guess these would be better suited for on-duty use or mounted to a weapon, where you don't want the 15 lumen output mode. I personally think the two settings is really, really smart.
More information: http://www.surefire.com/G2X6PXCampaign
Surefire G2X Pro
15 lumen "low output" mode
200 lumen "high output" mode
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Merry Christmas to me
Merry Christmas everyone! If you don't celebrate Christmas...well, you missed out. So Merry Christmas anyway! Hope you had a good week where ever you are.
Boring technical stuff first: Things are on track for 2,000 blog views this month, which absolutely blows me away. I'm really glad this is becoming a valuable resource. My commitment to you guys and gals is to keep the content coming in 2011. So keep checking back!
Ok, so there isn't a lot of shotgun building going on, and I have to admit I'm kind of glad. After doing two, 30gun builds back-to-back I was ready for a break. But I have modified mine slightly from the last posts so I'll get those pics up in a few days.
Also, my awesome sister and brother in law got me a Brownell's gift certificate for Christmas, and as you can imagine that had a lifespan of about 17.5 seconds before it was utilized :) So thanks to their generosity, a new Surefire G2X Pro is en route and will be here in a few days. I am sort of an LED fanatic so rest assured a thorough review will be posted as soon as it arrives and I have an evening to put it through it's paces.
OK, so even though the blog has been primarily about shotguns over the past few months my original intent was for it to be more all-encompassing of self defense weapons, gear and tactics. On that note, there is a new carry pistol in the mix that I wanted to talk about today: A Smith & Wesson 642 Centennial Airweight .38 Special.
I've never really been into revolvers, and I can't say why. I don't mean that like I have a secret and I cannot divulge the reason I don't like them, I mean it like "I have no idea why I don't really have a thing for revolvers." I don't dislike them. But semi-autos are just kind of my thing.
On that note, about a year ago I purchased an STI Guardian. It's an officers size 1911 in .45 ACP. Without a doubt it was the highest quality firearm I've ever owned. The action and tolerances were just amazing. Kind of a Rolex of .45's, and I've seen and shot all kinds. It would give a Wilson Combat or Les Baer a run for it's money. No joke. The problem was that I have a 1911 (Springfield full size) so the STI wasn't really unique in my (small) collection. And it was heavy. I bought it to carry concealed, and it was awesome EXCEPT for the weight. Which I just never could get over.
A local shop was willing to trade (PLUS CASH...don't anyone get ideas that I took that much of a bath!) and yesterday I picked up this little gem of a .38. I've carried it all day today and I could not be more impressed. It is light, at about 15 oz. unloaded and the shape is easy to conceal. I've had it in both a IWB (inside the waist) holster as well as a pocket holster and both are very, very comfortable.
Don't misunderstand me: If it were just an out-and-out gunbattle I would be wishing for the STI or my Springfield, but the reality is that the best carry gun in the world doesn't mean a thing if it's in your safe when you need it because it's uncomfortable to carry. On the other hand, you don't catch me carrying a rubber band and a smooth stone because it's convenient. I think you need to find a balance if concealed carry is your thing, and this really fits the bill. I also looked at the S&W Bodyguard .38, the Bodyguard .380auto, and both the Ruger LCP and LCR. I think any of them would make an excellent carry gun but this got my money.
One final comment on the small .380's... those were really tempting. One: I like auto loaders, and two: They are lighter and thinner than even this gun. BUT, some things bother me. First, the caliber. true a .380 is better than nothing, but having fought people on PCP I can tell you...well, I'll just say the ballistics of the .380 are not confidence-inspiring. The other negative tick mark for the .380 autos is reliability. Even in a full-size auto there are a LOT of moving parts with a lot of tolerances. I keep my guns immaculately clean and I've still had the occasional malfunction. That's what happens with anything mechanical, it stops working at some point. The idea of a bunch of SMALL parts, carried in a pocket or belt that introduces lint and dirt just makes me wonder. Could a revolver fail? Sure, but it's far less likely than a small auto. Just my $0.02.
Boring technical stuff first: Things are on track for 2,000 blog views this month, which absolutely blows me away. I'm really glad this is becoming a valuable resource. My commitment to you guys and gals is to keep the content coming in 2011. So keep checking back!
Ok, so there isn't a lot of shotgun building going on, and I have to admit I'm kind of glad. After doing two, 30gun builds back-to-back I was ready for a break. But I have modified mine slightly from the last posts so I'll get those pics up in a few days.
Also, my awesome sister and brother in law got me a Brownell's gift certificate for Christmas, and as you can imagine that had a lifespan of about 17.5 seconds before it was utilized :) So thanks to their generosity, a new Surefire G2X Pro is en route and will be here in a few days. I am sort of an LED fanatic so rest assured a thorough review will be posted as soon as it arrives and I have an evening to put it through it's paces.
OK, so even though the blog has been primarily about shotguns over the past few months my original intent was for it to be more all-encompassing of self defense weapons, gear and tactics. On that note, there is a new carry pistol in the mix that I wanted to talk about today: A Smith & Wesson 642 Centennial Airweight .38 Special.
I've never really been into revolvers, and I can't say why. I don't mean that like I have a secret and I cannot divulge the reason I don't like them, I mean it like "I have no idea why I don't really have a thing for revolvers." I don't dislike them. But semi-autos are just kind of my thing.
On that note, about a year ago I purchased an STI Guardian. It's an officers size 1911 in .45 ACP. Without a doubt it was the highest quality firearm I've ever owned. The action and tolerances were just amazing. Kind of a Rolex of .45's, and I've seen and shot all kinds. It would give a Wilson Combat or Les Baer a run for it's money. No joke. The problem was that I have a 1911 (Springfield full size) so the STI wasn't really unique in my (small) collection. And it was heavy. I bought it to carry concealed, and it was awesome EXCEPT for the weight. Which I just never could get over.
A local shop was willing to trade (PLUS CASH...don't anyone get ideas that I took that much of a bath!) and yesterday I picked up this little gem of a .38. I've carried it all day today and I could not be more impressed. It is light, at about 15 oz. unloaded and the shape is easy to conceal. I've had it in both a IWB (inside the waist) holster as well as a pocket holster and both are very, very comfortable.
Don't misunderstand me: If it were just an out-and-out gunbattle I would be wishing for the STI or my Springfield, but the reality is that the best carry gun in the world doesn't mean a thing if it's in your safe when you need it because it's uncomfortable to carry. On the other hand, you don't catch me carrying a rubber band and a smooth stone because it's convenient. I think you need to find a balance if concealed carry is your thing, and this really fits the bill. I also looked at the S&W Bodyguard .38, the Bodyguard .380auto, and both the Ruger LCP and LCR. I think any of them would make an excellent carry gun but this got my money.
One final comment on the small .380's... those were really tempting. One: I like auto loaders, and two: They are lighter and thinner than even this gun. BUT, some things bother me. First, the caliber. true a .380 is better than nothing, but having fought people on PCP I can tell you...well, I'll just say the ballistics of the .380 are not confidence-inspiring. The other negative tick mark for the .380 autos is reliability. Even in a full-size auto there are a LOT of moving parts with a lot of tolerances. I keep my guns immaculately clean and I've still had the occasional malfunction. That's what happens with anything mechanical, it stops working at some point. The idea of a bunch of SMALL parts, carried in a pocket or belt that introduces lint and dirt just makes me wonder. Could a revolver fail? Sure, but it's far less likely than a small auto. Just my $0.02.
Friday, December 17, 2010
Great forum, and newest logo version
Hey everyone. A quick shout out to all the folks over at Shotgunworld.com. What an awesome community with an amazing amount of information! Check it out
www.shotgunworld.com
I realized today that the last post of the logo I created was kind of a demo version. Here's the real one. Thanks for all your support.
www.shotgunworld.com
I realized today that the last post of the logo I created was kind of a demo version. Here's the real one. Thanks for all your support.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)